Virginia meats Valley: Cook lands first Virginia Barbeque franchise in Texas

Texas loves its barbecue, and the Rio Grande Valley has its own distinct twist on the stuff, but now there’s a new addition to the local smoked-meat spectrum: Virginia Barbeque.

Part of a relatively new chain based in Richmond, Va., Brownsville’s Virginia Barbeque held its grand opening Feb. 10 in the Paseo Real Shopping Center at 2100 Ruben Torres Blvd., with the Brownsville Chamber of Commerce on hand for a ribbon cutting.

Brownsville is the company’s first Texas location, says manager Ramón Sampayo, who owns the master franchise for the Lower Valley with his wife, Olga. Most of the nearly 20 other locations are in Virginia, though the company also has franchises in Delaware, Maryland, Missouri, North Carolina and Pennsylvania, with a location in California slated to open soon.

The concept was created by Rick Ivey, an executive chef who launched the original Virginia Barbecue in Ashland, Va., in 2000. Sampayo says the franchise is growing quickly and is expected to double in size in the next year or so. The restaurant’s pork may not be traditional Valley fare, though customer response has been enthusiastic nonetheless, Sampayo says.

"For the month we’ve been open we’re doing better than we expected," he says. "We’ve had an incredible acceptance of this style of barbecue, so we’re looking forward to growing both here in Brownsville and the McAllen-Weslaco area."

The restaurant features hand-pulled, hickory-smoked pork as well as pulled brisket in its own juice. Diners have their choice of Virginia-style tomato-based sauce or North Carolina-style vinegar-based sauce. Also on the menu are hickory-smoked St. Louis-style ribs and barbeque chicken. Eleven different sides include roasted red potato salad, cole slaw, baked beans and corn bread muffins, as well as Southern staples like green beans and collard greens. There’s a kids’ menus as well.

For dessert: Olga Sampayo’s homemade red velvet and lemon blossom cupcakes, specialties she’s been baking at home for years. The Sampayos enjoy the flexibility the company gives them to be able to serve homemade dessert — along with Ramón’s own rib sauce. It’s the Sampayos’ barbeque expertise, as a matter of fact, that brought Virginia Barbeque to Brownsville.

"My wife and I have been backyard barbequers for eight or nine years — smoking ribs and brisket on weekends and for family reunions," he says. "When we get together with friends I’m usually in charge of the ribs and the pulled pork. We decided to turn our hobby into a business."

The couple decided to pursue a franchise due to the relative ease of operation compared to running an independent restaurant. They traveled to Virginia, toured various Virginia Barbeque restaurants, liked what they saw (and tasted) and signed a contract. Ivey’s wife and business partner, Nina, came down from Virginia to train the Brownsville restaurant’s four full-time employees their first week in business.

"I’m pretty sure they don’t do for all the franchises," Sampayo says. "We were really grateful for that special attention."

He says he’s seen plenty of first-timers wander in, not sure what they’re getting themselves into.

"When they come in and I see they’re a little bit unsure, we offer them a menu and offer to explain the different choices," Sampayo says. "If they’re still undecided we give small sample of the different types of barbeque. That usually gets them."

Virginia Barbeque is next to Mr. Gatti’s in the Paseo Real Shopping Center. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Saturday.