Restaurateur aims to shake up downtown culinary scene with nonstandard offerings

Maybe it’s ironic that Barcelona Nights, a new wings and pizza joint at 1203 E. Adams downtown, closes at six.

But it might also be positive thinking on the part of the owner, Daniel Lenz, who says he’s willing to stay open later if there’s a demand and hopes his business will draw people who don’t normally come downtown.

The Minnesota native and longtime Brownsville resident didn’t just open a restaurant. In his view, he planted a seed.

Lenz, whose establishment is open from 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday, would like to see downtown become more of an after-hours destination with restaurants, clubs and the like — and he’d like to be part of it.

For now, he’s just hoping to make a go of it with a basic menu, including cheesecake, not available at any other downtown restaurant. Lenz, a jazz fan, adorned the walls of his restaurant with paintings of jazz greats, works commissioned from Brownsville artist Toni Hudson.

The music wafting from the speakers is, of course, jazz. Even the name, Barcelona Nights, is the title of a song by jazz composer and musician Ottmar Liebert.

"I’d like to think that I’m trying to do something good," Lenz says. "Somebody’s got to start it and hopefully other people will follow."

The restaurant seats 40 and features free wireless Internet access. Lenz is working on getting a beer and wine permit, though to apply it’s $2,500, with no refunds, if the establishment is 1,000 feet or closer to a church or school — a large sum for a small operation.

"I want to be wet restaurant and not a cantina," he says. "The city doesn’t want anymore cantinas down here."

Peter Goodman, the city of Brownsville’s downtown district director and film commissioner, is a native New Yorker and, as such, a pizza snob. He’s also a regular at Barcelona Nights. Lenz figures that if he can impress a New Yorker he must be doing something right.

"It’s not New York, but it’s the best I’ve ever had here," Goodman says. "His is very good."

Goodman says Lenz, who owns the building that houses Barcelona Nights, gave the property a badly needed makeover and turned it into something unique for downtown.

"Dan’s giving it everything he’s got," he says. "I hope he develops a nice following. He’s tried real hard to be a little bit different but not so far out that people aren’t used to it or wouldn’t like it."

As head of the downtown historic district, Goodman naturally wants Lenz’s enterprise to succeed. Toward that end, Barcelona Nights has been offered a booth at the Latin Jazz Fest the second week of October "so people can get to know his pizza," Goodman says.

Goodman would like to see more Daniel Lenzes — entrepreneurs willing to try something new downtown.

"Anybody opening a new business anywhere, it’s a risk," Goodman says. "Downtown it’s more of a risk. The folks that shop downtown don’t have as much disposable income as folks that go to the mall."

While many cities around the country pass bond issues to help revitalize downtowns, Brownsville has too many needs to shower money on downtown development, he says. One way the city might be able to help encourage new business downtown, Goodman says, is to show some flexibility on fees that discourage small business — such as the $2,500 beer and wine application fee.

"I know the commission is going to look at it," he says. "I can’t promise anything."

It’s not unusual for cities to waive fees or make other allowances in specific districts to help foster the growth of dining and entertainment venues, he says. McAllen’s city government, for instance, gave the green light to incentives for those wishing to buy, lease or renovate property inside the city’s South 17th Street entertainment district.

Whether alcoholic beverage application fees budge or not, Goodman says Brownsville’s leadership is interested in downtown.

"I hear it a lot from our commissioners: ‘Why can’t we do something about downtown?’ Everybody wants it to happen. It’s just a matter of how you make it happen," he says.