‘Sazón' at any time

BROWNSVILLE - Copious layers of warm beef teased me with anticipation as the waitress sat the Tampiqueña plate on the red and white checkered tablecloth.

The waitress at Najera Café had already visited my table numerous times to refill my coffee cup, bring chips and a hot bowl of soup with cabbage, zucchini, and carrots, and to ask if I needed anything else. She had several tables she needed to serve, and I never saw her neglect anyone. I admired her energy and loyalty to her clients; that loyalty was part of a pattern emanating from the café that extended to the food I enjoyed on this resplendent Sunday afternoon.

Najera Café at 226 Security Dr. charmed me with its simple beauty. Violet, punch red, green and sky blue papel picado festooned the ceiling, their stillness interrupted only by the occasional wisp of air tossed by the ceiling fan. Customers moved in and out of the restaurant, an electronic hiccup sounding off each time the door opened, sending a puff of air into the dining room.

A bulging ceramic sun smiled from a Mediterranean green wall, straw sombreros seemed to shimmer around six-pronged piñatas wearing green, Mexican pink and cobalt blue tissue paper; the afternoon sun filtered through curtains of fuchsia, pumpkin yellow, and azure.

As I surveyed the menu, I wished I'd come for breakfast. I could have ordered eggs with ham, or chorizo, or bacon, each for only $3.50. The chilaquiles with chicken would have cost only $3.99, and three pancakes for $1.95 sounded like a pretty good deal. However, the lunch menu looked appetizing as well. I had difficulty choosing between bistek ranchero for $5.50, fajitas for a dollar more, or flautas for only $4.50. A hot bowl of caldo de res would have been pretty good at only $5.50 - a small bowl cost $4.50.

In the end I finally decided on the Tampiquena plate. The portly abundance of food radiating with flavor and warmth assured me it would more than conquer my hunger, and the din of flavors delighted my senses. The meal came with a small cup of beans graciously infused with chunks of bacon. Sweet guacamole lay prostrate over a mound of freshly grated lettuce, and an enchilada smothered in cheese awaited its fate with my fork, jealously guarding its power until the last possible moment.

Alas, it couldn't keep its secrets from me, and as I dove into its rapturous wonders I felt a sincere gratitude to the cooks who'd made it possible, not only with the enchilada but with the entire plate. I found the beef endowed with a fabulous wealth of seasonings as I wrapped chunk after chunk in a corn tortilla, and the rice was warm and fluffy. I enjoyed the quesadilla too, and I felt grief-stricken when I realized I couldn't consume the entire meal. The cooks had fed me to their heart's content, but I couldn't put it down in one setting. But never fear, a carry-out box was in order, and my waitress, always attentive, soon had the remainder of the meal ready for me to take home.

Before I rose to leave, the waitress brought me a little cup of arroz con leche, which had just the right sweetness without overwhelming.

All this great food and service cost me only $8.13. At such a low price, I wished I'd gotten a side order of queso flameado, until I realized I wouldn't have been able to eat it until later. I'll try that next time, as there surely will be more visits to this lovely little diner. I think next time I'll come on a weekday when they have specials, such as milanesa de res or chicken fajitas on Mondays, mole on Tuesday, or all you can eat fish on Friday. I might even try some cheese cake for dessert.

WHAT: Najera Café

WHERE: 226 Security Drive

Brownsville, Texas

PHONE: 544-8888

HOURS OF OPERATION: Mon. - Sat. 6 a.m. - 3 p.m.

Sun. 7 a.m. - 2 p.m.

COST: $ Most meals are under $10

WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE: Yes

PAYMENT: Checks, credit cards

RATING:

ATMOSPHERE: 3

FOOD: 4 ½

SERVICE: 4 ½