Vermillion offers quality cousine

Locals have gathered at the Vermillion Restaurant and Watering Hole for decades, and I quickly discovered why.

My waiter was prompt and efficient and the food thoroughly quenched my hunger (as always - I've eaten there many times). The dining room is intriguing: mounted deer heads, arched windows and black and white photos of past Charro Days carry diners on a journey through history. Photos of downtown Brownsville from days of old tell more stories of the community's past.

I arrived just after 11 a.m., but before the full brunt of the trendy lunch crowd poured in. A few diners had taken advantage of the time, as I had, arriving early and chatting with friends.

"Hey, Tony, how are you?" called a fellow in jeans seated at a large, round, centrally located table. "Good to see you. Merry Christmas," he said, standing to shake hands with a man who had just entered. Nearby, a waitress brought a high chair for a baby.

The Vermillion opened in 1934, according to the menu, which is filled with tantalizing fare like ribeye steak, Cajun shrimp and fajita nachos. Fred Vermillion and his wife, who purchased land at what is now Paredes Line Road and Boca Chica Boulevard, originally opened the restaurant, but Dan and Rachel Davidson currently own the popular eating establishment.

I surveyed the menu, which also offers ceviche, shrimp cocktail and fish Veracruz. There's a fried shrimp salad, dinner salad and homemade soup; nachos, a Tampiqueña platter, enchiladas, and Southwest chicken.

The fajita surf and turf, for $11.99, is comprised of marinated fajitas, spicy shrimp, Spanish rice, beans a la charra and flour tortillas. The Sancho Panza is a hefty beef patty topped with cheese, jalapeños and homemade chili served with Spanish rice, refried beans and tortillas.

I settled on the chicken salad (my usual fare) - crispy grilled chicken strips over succulent lettuce, carrots and celery sticks. I noticed as waves of customers slowly filled the dining area that the wait staff never slowed down, nor did the customers diminish their enthusiasm for the comfort of this beloved watering hole.

"You comin' to join us for lunch?" asked a man on a cell phone. "It's Wednesday, Vermillion day."

Wait staff stopped by several times to fill my glass with water, and I didn't have to wait long for my lunch, which was delicious.

There was only one slight problem. I had asked them to refrain from sprinkling cheese on the dish in an effort to control my cholesterol, yet a deliciously generous portion of shredded cheese covered the salad. I considered asking them to take it back, but succumbed to temptation. The menu does have low-carb meals: spicy shrimp salad, bun-less burger, and the low-carb fajita plate. (Could it be I wasn't really serious about watching my cholesterol?)

I poured a raspberry vinaigrette over the salad and commenced to enjoy the meal. It was, as always, fabulous. I look forward to returning to the Vermillion soon to explore some of their other dishes, carbs or not.

WHAT: Vermillion Restaurant and Watering Hole

LOCATION: 115 Paredes Line Road

Brownsville, Texas

PHONE: 956-542-9893

HOURS: Sun. - Wed. 11 a.m. - 10:30 p.m.

Thurs. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 11:30 p.m.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE?: Yes.

RATING ON A SCALE OF 1 - 4 STARS

Atmosphere: 3 ½ stars

Food: 3 ½ stars

Service: 3