The sugar goes to their heads

At first glance, sugar skulls, or calaveras de azúcar, may seem like colorful statues, delicately sculpted from crystal.

Closer examination reveals a culinary process requiring food coloring, frosting and many pounds of sugar.

The sugar candies are used as decoration for Dia de los Muertos celebrations, Nov. 1- 2 (All Saints Day and All Souls Day).

Most commonly produced in areas of Mexico, including Guadalajara, Jalisco and Puebla, they can be adorned with sequins, patterns and intricate designs and are generally placed on altars with candles, photographs and Pan de Muerto, or bread of the dead.

The annual observance is meant to show respect and reverence for the departed, by offering food and performing colorful ceremonies.

To begin the process, sugar is mixed with meringue powder and water, poured into molds and set aside to dry. The procedure requires plenty of time and patience, yet results in sturdy figures that can be stored for years.

Jessica Villescaz, curator at the Brownsville heritage complex said that designing sugar skulls is comparable to making gingerbread houses, and requires special frosting made from powdered sugar, meringue powder, and water. She said that a batch of 25 skulls uses 10 pounds of sugar, which needs to be mixed just right before it’s allowed to set in the molds.

“When it’s right, it has the consistency of wet sand,” Villescaz said. “If you can put your finger in the bowl and your fingerprint stays, you’re good.”

Villescaz said that the skulls can also be made using chocolate, amaranth seeds, or sesame seeds and is ideal for teaching young children the different aspects of the Day of the Dead traditions. She advises making the figures in an environment with low humidity and said that despite their high sugar content, they are not known to draw insects.

“The most I ever made at one time was 80,” Villescaz said. “When you’re making the frosting in the house smells like cupcakes.”